Khun Korn National Park, Thailand

4Along the Mae Korn River

From the main road to the falls, the route follows the winding Mae Korn River as it races happily along. In the dry months it is still a refreshing stream, fine for paddling in, shaded by woods and handsome bamboo groves. During the rains, while rather swollen, it is still possible to stand in, and is a favourite fishing spot with local boys.

The stream passes through three hamlets, Bahn Pang Kok, Bahn Pang Rim Korn and finally Bahn Pang O. There are just a few houses and shops lining the road and the stream. The farms and woods across the stream are reached by way of simple bamboo bridges, just large enough to wheel a bicycle over. The winding stream and grassy banks have a passing resemblance to alpine scenery, a resemblance heightened by the sharp-roofed wooden houses peaking through the trees. There are several very large resort style houses and ranches set in formal gardens along the road.

The entire area is heavily wooded with small trees and secondary bamboo growth; the whole often covered in thick vines. A hand painted sign to your left in the first village as you go towards the falls points to Ban Akha Huai San, while further up, past the last village, a concrete bridge to the right is the start of a long, twisty and frequently treacherous road, which, on my map at least, leads back to the Nam Mae Kok and Chiang Rai.

There are three or four hill-tribe villages through here with deep jungle trails leading to yet others. This is definitely not a good route for the rainy season, except maybe on foot with guides, but in the dry season it should certainly be navigable by fourwheel drive and motorcycle while the truly hardy might want to consider cycling it.